The most complicated Reverso to date has four faces full of complexity…
To celebrate the company’s most iconic model on the 90th, it was born in 1931 as a fairly simple wristwatch anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre, announced for the miracle of horology in 2021, the Hybris Mechanica caliber 185 Quadriptyque (caliber 185 for simplicity) ) A super complication in 18k white gold limited edition. Calibre 185 is the world’s first four-sided watch, and it is also the most complex Reverso watch ever manufactured. It includes 11 complications, including perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and indications of meeting dates, tornadoes and abnormal cycles. And such examples are too numerous to mention…
Complex reversals over the years
The complex history of Reverso has its roots in 1991, the 500-piece limited edition Soixantième is to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Reverso flip. Soixantième brings a larger case size, called Big Tail, and more importantly, it is the first Reverso equipped with complex functions. Next are five more complex Reversos: Reverso Tourbillon, Reverso Répétition Minutes, Reverso Chronographe Rétrograde, Reverso Géographique and Reverso Quantième Perpétuel. This series of watches is far more than bragging about their rights-it laid the foundation for manufacturers to rediscover high complexity and redesign them to fit the small size of the rectangular Reverso case. The first Duoface model was introduced in the early 2000s, followed by the legendary two-tube Septantième movement. With the release of Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque, the complex Reverso reached its peak in 2006.
The new REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185
The case of Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185, despite its complexity and reversible case, still maintains wearable proportions; it has a length of 51.2 mm, a width of 31 mm, and a thickness of 15.15 mm. Despite the use of a multi-component reversible case and chassis, Calibre 185 can still maintain a water resistance of 30 meters. Calibre 185 is based on Triptyque’s first innovative solution-at midnight, a pin protrudes from the movement of the main case to actuate a button in the chassis of the case-thereby pushing all indications on all four sides of the watch.
The first face, the 185-type movement, displays civil time and instantaneous perpetual calendar display, including a day and month window at 12 o’clock and a two-digit date at 5 o’clock. All the instructions of the perpetual calendar jump at midnight-hence the nickname “instantaneous”. The leap year indicator is discreetly hidden on the periphery of the dial, at the traditional 1 o’clock position. At 7 o’clock, in the large aperture on the triangle wheel that extends to the lower part of the case, there is a one-minute flying tourbillon that doubles as a running second hand. The entire dial is cut into nails or Paris nail patterns on a rose-colored lathe, and then plated with metallic silver. The dial is also partially hollowed out to display the day, month and date wheels. In the typical Reverso style,
The second face is also cut with the Clou de Paris guilloché pattern, and is more thoroughly hollowed out to show the minute repeater (activated by the trigger on the side of the case), including the centrifugal governor at 9 o’clock and the timekeeping device in between. Rack 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock. Civilian time is again displayed on this surface, this time in an unorthodox way: the digital jumping hour display is superimposed on the white minute track, and a smoked sapphire disk with red hands rotates around it to display the minutes. Across the width of the movement is a fully mirror-polished bridge that supports the minute repeater device. Below you can see the sling hammer and gong of the time device. The Minute Repeater uses a number of JLC proprietary technologies: the gong is directly connected to the crystal itself, which first appeared in the Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre in 2005, which produces a clearer and louder chime. The debut of Calibre 185 is a novel system that eliminates the traditionally heard pauses between the minute repeater chimes, especially when there is no quarter chime (e.g. at 12:09, e.g. , When the 12-tone small clock is followed by nine high-pitched minute bells).
The third face is shown on the inner surface of the Reverso case chassis. For the first time in the history of watches and clocks, the combined period, the dragon period and the abnormal period will be displayed in a watch. The aperture at 12 o’clock shows a laser-engraved moon, which gradually reveals and covers, corresponding to the rendezvous period seen from the northern hemisphere. The display on the left side of the lower part of the dial shows the dragon period, which indicates the intersection of the moon’s orbit and the earth’s orbit around the sun. If the counters of the moon and the sun are on the horizontal line, the moon, the earth, and the sun are all on the same plane. In addition, if the moon is in the new or full moon phase during this alignment, a solar eclipse event will occur on the earth. To the right of the dragon cycle, the depiction of the moon depicts the elliptical orbit depicted by the enamel hemisphere around the earth. This display shows anomalous cycles or cycles of different distances between the earth and the moon. When the moon is in full phase near its perigee and is closest to the earth, an event called a super moon will occur.
Calibre 185 comes with a display box with a built-in mechanism that allows the owner to correct all calendar and astronomical displays of the watch after the watch is a few days behind. The box itself is equipped with two set crowns-the watch is set in a frame inside the box, the crown on the box is used to set the number of days that have passed since the watch was last worn, and then the crown is pulled to the second The position allows quick adjustment of all calendar and astronomical complications.
Is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque a practical, everyday wearable, high-performance watch? Absolutely not. Calibre 185 plays a role in the rare world of super watches that surpass traditional large-scale complications. For the very few lucky people who have the opportunity to own and experience this watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the ultimate embodiment of the Reverso tradition.
Technical specifications-JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185 QUADRIPTYQUE
Case: 51.2 mm high x 31 mm wide x 15.5 mm thick-18k white gold, polished-sapphire crystal front and back-double-sided case, two main faces (rotating case) and indications on both sides of the chassis And complications-30m water resistance
Indication: Face 1: Hours and minutes, tourbillon (indicating seconds), instantaneous perpetual calendar, big date, week, month, leap year, day and night display
Face 2: Jumping digits for hours, minutes,
Minute repeater surface 3: Moon phase in the northern hemisphere, dragon-moon cycle (moon height), anomalous lunar cycle (apogee and perigee), month, year
Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase
Movement: Calibre 185, self-produced-Manually wound tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and astronomical watch-1 minute 4Hz tourbillon-50 hours power reserve
Strap: blue alligator leather strap