New and noteworthy: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25820SP Perpetual Calendar
There is no doubt: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic watches of the last century. Its instantly recognizable shape is still the focus of debate among many collectors, and its incredible popularity among elite tastemakers makes it more like a lightning rod for popular shooting. No matter where you stand on this bold timepiece, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25820SP perpetual calendar undeniably offers a lot. At a time when the price of steel watches was very weird, this charming stainless steel and platinum watch, equipped with perpetual calendar complications, was beyond our expectations and beckons us to take a closer look. So let’s get started, shall we?
The “SP” in the reference number of this watch (25820SP) indicates that it is unlikely to combine precious metals with non-precious metals. If you want to know what it is, just take a closer look at these photos and let your eyes see the answer; the platinum surface is polished to a beautiful mirror gloss, while the steel is brushed. This soft contrast adds a refined aesthetic to the design, allowing the platinum bezel to jump out of the brushed steel background. For those who feel that Royal Oak lacks subtlety, this article is a clear rebuttal.
The contrast between the bezel and the rest of the case and the integrated bracelet help draw attention to the “main event” of this watch: the dial. The refreshing large black plaid pattern is both fashionable and charming. Audemars Piguet is known for this kind of meticulous work, and these dials require very fine use of specialized metalworking tools. As soon as it slipped, the entire dial was ruined. Of course, it is worth spending a long time carefully observing these beautiful close-up shots to fully appreciate the workmanship.
The dial has four sub-dials. The 9 o’clock position is the day of the week, opposite the date subdial at 3 o’clock. At 6 o’clock is the moon phase with Audemars Piguet’s signature. To the north, we see month and leap year indicators at 12 o’clock. The watch’s calendar will remain accurate for decades to come. The classic AP stick pointer indicates all this information, except for the moon phase. Use hour markers to punctuate the outer minute track.
The perpetual calendar and the unusual combination of metals are undoubtedly a large part of what makes this watch so collectible today. It is powered by cal. 2120/2802. This automatic movement has 38 jewels and 343 parts, with a power reserve of 40 hours. It beats at a frequency of 2.75Hz or 19800 vph. The basis of this movement was originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and was first introduced in 1967. Other brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin also use this movement to make watches. It is reliable and thin, which makes it the perfect starting point for Audemars Piguet Cal. 2120/2802, added the perpetual calendar function. Part of the reason why the movement is so thin is that it uses four outer ruby bearings instead of the central ball bearing, which allows the rotor to move smoothly.
The lovely rhodium-plated movement can be seen through the sapphire caseback. As you might expect, the finishing work provides more examples of professional craftsmanship. The bridges are all hand-polished, with polished bevels, satin-brushed edges and nacres. The rotor is hollow, allowing a good glimpse of the movement from any angle. This section is 21k gold.
Of course, this is not Audemars Piguet’s first perpetual calendar, nor is it their first Royal Oak perpetual calendar. In 1948, the Associated Press released the first perpetual calendar watch ref. 5516. Only 12 were produced and evolved over time; one of the improvements was the first ever perpetual calendar watch with a leap year indicator on the dial. Of course, this should remind you of ref. 25820SP is before us today. The first Royal Oak perpetual calendar, reference. 5554, announced in 1984. Different from reference. 25820SP, this watch has no leap year window. In addition, its design actually has quite a lot in common with references. 25820SP.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25820SP Perpetual Calendar is a special watch for many reasons. First of all, it comes from a highly respected lineage, not only the Royal Oak, but also the pioneering history of the Associated Press in the field of perpetual calendar watches. It is also special in that the rare combination of stainless steel and platinum gives the watch a unique look and feel. Finally, what makes it special is the incredible handwork and attention to detail during its creation. If you are looking for Royal Oak but don’t want to succumb to all the hype, please refer to it. 25820SP is a good choice. vintage watches for sale