De Bethune “DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon”

De Bethune launches “DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon“-the first and lightest one ever!

The movement incorporates a transparent sapphire crystal, paired with the famous De Bethune tourbillon, which is the lightest tourbillon ever.

On the occasion of Geneva Watch Day, De Bethune introduced the iconic DB28 steel wheel with tourbillon for the first time. The movement’s triangular bridge and the two barrel covers are made of sapphire crystal. DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is faithful to the DNA of “Maison” located in Sainte Croix in the Swiss Jura Mountains, subtly continuing the tradition of its predecessors: perfect balance, modern and bold aesthetics, and excellent mechanic service. The limited edition is only 10 pieces.

2020: Celebrate the 10th anniversary of DB28.

When the first DB28 was launched in 2010, De Bethune’s idea was to show a timepiece with its own identity and a firm vision for the future of watchmaking. The design naturally follows the creative spirit of the watch factory. The unique shape of the case and the crown at 12 o’clock are inspired by pocket watches, which are the unique contemporary aesthetic characteristics of De Bethune. It is on this timepiece that De Bethune’s patent for a unique and innovative floating lug designed to significantly improve comfort has its full meaning. Since then, DB28-named the best watch of the year and won the gold pointer award at the 2011 Geneva Watch Grand Prix (GPHG)-has never stopped expressing past, present and future through different variants Watchmaking culture.

After a series of contemporary iterations, from Skybridge to Kind-of-Blue, to the recent DB28XP, DB28XP Starry Sky and DB28XP Tourbillon, De Bethune has found a new way to reveal new aspects of this design time and time again. , Has been immediately recognized by its smooth and tight lines.

January 2018: The birth of the DB28 steel wheel

DB28 Steel Wheels came out in 2018, marked by transparency and lightness. The idea is to open the dial to show the modern architecture of its movement. DB28 Steel Wheels is known for its triangular bridges (the symbol of De Bethune) and the moon at 6 o’clock, fascinated by many different forms-hemispherical, concave, spherical-to create a dynamic architectural effect. This is all about perceiving levels, levels and reliefs, light and shadows and reflections. This watch is cut from titanium and worn on the wrist, showing the modern architectural fusion of space, time and light.

We must return to the source of inspiration that nourished the creativity of Denis Flageollet, founder and watchmaker of fake De Bethune: celebrating the passion of the great watchmaking industry in the Age of Enlightenment, and injecting ancestral knowledge and understanding the latest technological and scientific developments at the same time. Sapphire crystal is most commonly used in the production of watch cases, giving De Bethune a new role. Here, it finds a new mission in the form of the iconic triangular splint and the cover of the two barrels. The blue bridge and the transparent lid are all integrated into the movement, allowing light to work and providing new reflections-allowing the eyes to truly enter the mechanism.

DB28 steel wheel sapphire tourbillon
The transparency of these sapphire crystal components not only magnifies the movement, but also provides different types of lighting, new brilliance and sparkle, highlighting the tight lines, architecture and different levels of the movement, bringing a charming sense of depth. Each sapphire crystal component is surrounded by polished titanium.

A contemporary reinterpretation of stained glass Denis Flageollet has always been in the spirit of going as far as possible, designing sapphire glass components, cutting them with the most precise laser, so that they fit perfectly with the shape, rise, angle and teeth – splints and The barrel cover-all perfectly adjusted like sapphire crystal lace.

In addition, a polished titanium ring was added to surround each lid. The appearance of the triangular splint and the two sapphire crystal barrel caps has never been seen before. The cutting of the glass and the polished metallic gray line highlight the periphery, highlighting the determined modern beauty.

The thickness of the sapphire crystal varies from component to component. The thickness of the sapphire of the splint is 1 mm to ensure functional rigidity, and the thickness of the sapphire of the barrel cover is 0.3 mm. These glass components do not affect the robustness at all, and certainly do not affect the reliability when worn out-to ensure robustness and perfect resistance to small daily vibrations.

De Bethune handmade hand

De Bethune has been making watch hands by hand in the workshop of l’Auberson. Therefore, the DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is equipped with a particularly fine hour hand. It consists of 4 different elements: a barrel made of steel for technical reasons, a titanium insert, a matt titanium inner component, and a polished titanium outer component. Each component works differently. The result is unique. In the back, a low-key action. The power reserve indicator can be read with a hand-made blued steel pointer, which is also hand-made in De Bethune’s workshop as usual.

De Bethune’s tourbillon: why is it so small, so light, and so fast?

Among the many complications and functions of the horological discipline that De Bethune has become a master, the tourbillon often plays a leading role. DB28 Steel Wheels takes a further step towards complexity and supreme refinement with its moon, which today gives way to a tourbillon with an ultra-light frame (0.18 grams, the lightest ever). It rotates once every 30 seconds, and it contains a total of 63 components (the lightest weight is less than 0.0001 grams!).

Nowadays, watches are subjected to more actions than safe and adequate compensation. Changes in location are often sudden and sometimes chaotic. In fact, the power exerted on mechanical watch movements under normal wear and tear conditions seems quite amazing. Just as Breguet invented the tourbillon to meet the limitations of nautical watches, De Bethune designed the tourbillon for the new dynamics of the best watches.

The laws of physics are clear: in order to compensate for the absolute force of the wrist movement, the tourbillon frame must be as light as possible and run at the maximum frequency and rotation speed, with all weight and inertia at the absolute minimum. Only in this way can it perform its functions in the watches manufactured today.

The tourbillon is made of titanium and silicon and vibrates 36,000 times per hour. It has a very light cage (0.18 grams, the lightest ever), rotates every 30 seconds, and consists of 63 components (the lightest weight is less than 0.0001 grams). Like flying insects, miniature exoskeletons hold them together. Therefore, so small, so light, and so fast, De Bethune’s tourbillon is just for today’s watch to perform its function more effectively.

The futuristic tourbillon bridge holds the tourbillon perfectly in place symmetrically from both sides.

Highly refined finishes, the essence of exquisite craftsmanship Métiers d’Art that De Bethune understands and lives-craftsmanship is a tribute to the unique vitality of mankind. Among the various handmade decorations unique to the De Bethune movement, the mirror-polished titanium sheet provides amazing light and shadow effects. The surface of the component is finished to reflect the ambient light perfectly. The metal surface is polished patiently until it becomes a real mirror.

It may take many days to polish individual components to achieve this result. When the matter settles down, the moment when the atom is in place is gradually approaching. At that moment, the one who “knows” was about to go too far with boxwood grindstone and diamond paste. The moment between the deep and flawless mirror effect and the imperfect thing. All of this is the result of the interaction of the heart, eyes, and hands. In addition to professional knowledge, this is a process issue. Pushing the boundaries of excellence in all fields in this way requires a strong desire, an unhindered drive.

This fashion watches uses medium-sized floating lugs for unparalleled comfort.

The DB28 steel wheelless sapphire tourbillon uses a polished grade 5 titanium case and is mounted on the new floating lugs launched this year. Completely redesigned, coordinated and adapted to the spirit of the watch, they are tipped with the famous “bullet” and are more prominent here, reminiscent of the spirit of the first De Bethune series. The finishing touch: a crocodile leather strap with a titanium buckle, which also contributes to the practicality and daily wearability of this very special timepiece.